london fashion week always impresses with designs that are subversively futuristic without being too campy. david koma's collection is a perfect testament that only the brits can cleverly edit both shape and fabric to create a refined yet playful look with an air of futurism. the palette (camel, grey and black) could have been retro if it weren't for the addition of wiry metallic embroidery. materials were sinisterly mixed as well. koma cut flannel and wool (typically conservative fabrics) into body-con dresses with leather panels that narrowed at the side, exposing skin and plunging necklines. defined structure carried the sci-fi trend - think dresses with sharp pyramids set along arms, or jumpers that were cut at tight waistlines which flowed into boxy balloon skirts. my favorite looks may be the zig-zag patterned beige and black dresses that resembled cartoon explosions. the collection reminds me a bit of bruno pieters' spring collection - although it may just be the common color scheme, as koma is much more surreal and geometrically forward with his silhouette.
images via nymag